近日,迪奥抄袭中国马面裙事件愈演愈烈。 7月23日,中国留学生们自发穿汉服, 在法国巴黎迪奥旗舰店附近抗议迪奥的“文化挪用”行径。
(资料图)
留学生手举“停止文化挪用” 等标语 来源:微博网友巴黎五号幸运儿
截至发稿前,迪奥官方仍然没有给出任何回应,只在中国官网默默下架了这条裙子。
为何这件事令中国网友和留学生们如此愤怒?中国日报记者忍不住用英文发声,告诉海内外网友:迪奥的行为不仅仅是“复制”了中国传统服饰这么简单!
挪用中国文化却标榜为原创
“借鉴了但不承认”,这是令绝大多数网友感到愤怒的关键。
这条标价2.9万人民币(约4295美元)的迪奥裙子,不论是设计还是上身效果,与中国的汉服马面裙有着令人惊讶的相似。
B站up主七十二烟尘将2022年迪奥裙子与中国汉服商家2019年生产的秋季马面裙放在一起对比,发现两条裙子几乎一模一样。
中国汉服商家生产的马面裙(左) 迪奥裙(右) 来源:B站up主 七十二烟尘
然而,这条裙子却在迪奥的官网简介里,被称为采用了“标志性的Dior廓形”。
裙子的产品说明 来源:迪奥官网
文化抄袭?不,中国网友提到了一个词“文化挪用”。这就是赤裸裸地将别人的东西说成是自己的。
Cultural plagiarism? No, Dior is nakedly claiming another culture’s garments as its own. So, let’s call this thing by its real name: theft.
中国文化从来都是开放包容的,如果迪奥在这条裙子的简介上注明“灵感来自中国马面裙”或者坦诚一点,直接说这是马面裙,中国网友还会这么愤怒嘛?相反,我们可能还会为中国的服饰文化走向世界而感到欣喜。
Chinese culture has always been open and tolerant. If Dior marked, "inspired by a Chinese horse-faced skirt", or had the sensitivity and honesty to openly call it a horse-faced skirt, would Chinese netizens still be so angry? No, we would be delighted to see China’s culture inspiring the world.
但是迪奥偏偏如此傲慢,称 “这款半裙采用标志性的Dior廓形,是一款全新的优雅时尚的单品”。这样的做法,不仅狭隘,而且与迪奥此前的处事风格大相径庭。
吃饭砸锅
迪奥事件本质上是不尊重中国市场
根据迪奥官网显示,包括精品店、零售商、餐厅、展览馆在内,迪奥在中国一共有41家分店。根据迪奥的母公司LVMH集团2022年发布的年报,除日本以外的亚洲市场已经成为LVMH集团最大的收入来源,占集团收入的35%。
毫无疑问,中国市场对LVMH集团一年642.2亿欧元(约699亿美元)的营业收入有着巨大贡献。但是他们却丝毫没有将中国这样一个巨大的消费市场放在眼里。
But Dior did not pay any attention to China’s huge consumer market.
那么,迪奥是怎么对待其他国家呢?据悉,售卖这件裙子的Dior韩国首尔专卖店在装饰上融合了法国与韩国文化,为此,迪奥还特意发了一条推特宣传。
然而,这边却绝口不提对于中国文化元素的借鉴。
从一开始只下架中国区域内的抄袭商品,到现在还没有对相关事件发表任何声明或致歉,甚至关闭了迪奥官方账号在中国社交媒体微博的评论......以上种种行为都透露出一个信息:高端奢侈品牌迪奥对于中国文化和中国市场没有丝毫的尊重。
Chinese cultural elements is never mentioned in the endorsement, and even now, there is no official statement or apology from by Dior. Even the comments area on the Chinese social media platform, Weibo, of Dior"s official account are turned off. Through these behaviors, I have seen that Dior, a high-end luxury brand, has no respect for Chinese culture and the Chinese market.
对中国传统服饰文化的伤害不止于此
文化本就是流动和发展的。中国有许许多多美好的传统文化,我们欢迎全世界各国的喜爱和使用,但如果是毫无诚意的“偷盗”,我们绝不能容忍,因为这样造成的后果是难以估量的。
作为一个国际知名的品牌,迪奥的影响力无疑是巨大的,它的产品设计和宣传会无形地影响到全球消费者的认知,当他们脑海当中已经植入马面裙就是迪奥的原创设计的概念后,迪奥行为的害处就不仅仅体现在对于中国传统服饰文化的伤害上了。
As an internationally renowned brand, Dior"s influence is undoubtedly huge. Its product design and publicity will invisibly affect the cognition of consumers around the world. After they have implanted the horse-faced skirt as Dior"s original design in their minds, the harmful result of Dior"s behavior will emerge, not only by undermining Chinese culture, but also putting buyers in a position where they are, in fact, wearing a lie.
这里,我们想对所有的海内外网友说:
想象一下多年以后,你穿着花高价购买的迪奥“原创设计长裙”,正兴高采烈地走在街上,却被认识这条裙子设计的人指出“这不是中国传统的汉服吗”,而你却对此一无所知时,尴尬的究竟是自以为花高价购买了原创设计的你,还是早已经赚得盆满钵满的迪奥呢?
Imagine that many years later, you are wearing a Dior "original design skirt" that you bought at a high price, and you are walking on the street cheerfully, but someone who knows the design of this skirt points out "isn"t this a traditional Chinese hanfu?", but you know nothing about it. Isn’t that embarrassing? And who will be more embarrassed? You, who bought the original design at a very high price, or Dior who has already made a lot of money?
关键词: LVMH